Cagliari, The Capital of Sardinia: Where To Go and What To Do

I’m from a town near the capital city of Cagliari in the south of Sardinia. Cagliari has a lot of history and culture to explore and great restaurants to try. You’re also a short drive from a number of beautiful beaches, vineyards and hiking trails. Here are my recommendations as a Sardinian for the best things to do in Cagliari and to help you plan your next visit.

Cagliari's City Beach
Poetto is the main beach in Cagliari and is over 8km long. It’s located very close to the centre and is easily accessible by public transport. It has lots of nice beach bars and cafes to enjoy throughout the day and at night. There are also a number of really nice restaurants along the seafront including Ristorante Calamosca and Antica Cagliari. It can get very busy during the day in summer so you may want to arrive early to secure your spot on the beach!

Beaches 
Nora beach is one of my absolute favourites. It’s a little less touristy than some of the others and it’s protected from the wind. There are a number of nice restaurants near the beach or you can travel to the next town, Pula (the most popular restaurant here is S'incontru). I'd recommend booking restaurants in advance where you can during peak times, particularly if they're near the beach.

The beaches in Villasimius and Costa Rei are famous and among some of the best along the south-east coast of Sardinia. More affordable than Costa Esmeralda in the north, they have crystal clear water and soft sand. 

Tuerredda and Chia are located in the south of Sardinia, about an hour's drive from Cagliari. You will need to get there early as both have a quota but they're lovely beaches and they both have nice restaurants and access to good services. 

Scoglio di Peppino, Porto Giunco, Mari Pintau (which has stones not sand and is perfect for sunset) and Porto Pino are also beautiful options. 

Other notable beach areas (but they are a drive away):

• Cala Goloritzé (voted the best beach in the world!)
• La Pelosa
• Cala Mariolu 
• Cala Brandinchi 
• Is Arutas
• Su Giudeu
• Cala Luna
• Le Bombarde
• Santa Teresa Di Gallura
• Cala Domestica 
• Stintino ​

Restaurants/Bars in Cagliari

• Ristorante Calamosca and Le Terrazze di Calamosca: I love both of these places and the terrazza is perfect for breakfast, lunch or an aperitivo. 
• Pailotte: This bar/restaurant is not open every day but you can still walk there from Ristorante Calamosca to enjoy its lovely views and a little private beach.
• Antica Cagliari in Viale Poetto and La Marinella: Both lovely options and are close to Poetto beach. 
• Cadozzoni in Poetto: Little panini vans which are delicious for a snack on the beach.
• Bacan Cagliari: A lovely spot for a drink and a snack.
• Sa Piola and Is Feminas: Both serve typical Sardinian food.
• Bombas: Sardinian burgers and the restaurant itself is very cool.
• Framento: A really great pizzeria that uses sourdough for a really light, crispy dough.
• Palazzo Doglio: This square has a number of restaurants to choose from in a very nice location in the city.
• Is Perdas: A beautiful agriturismo about an hour drive from Cagliari. 
• Agriturismo La Biada: A nice way to try local, traditional Sardinian food.
• Piazza Yenne: Take a stroll along the streets surrounding this piazza to enjoy aperitivo hour like a local. ​

Typical Dishes You Have To Try
No trip to Sardinia would be complete without trying some of our most iconic dishes. Here are some of my favourites:

• Culurgiones: Traditional Sardinian ravioli with a potato, pecorino cheese and mint filling.
• Malloreddus alla Campidanese: A gnocchi-like pasta called malloreddus (or Gnocchetti Sardi) cooked in a fennel sausage ragù.
• Pane Carasau: A traditional crispy Sardinian flatbread, also known as “music paper bread” because of the sound it makes when you break it.
• Fregula con Arselle: Fregula is a small pasta shape made from durum wheat flour and water that resembles Isaeli couscous. It’s often served with tiny clams. 
• Maialetto: This slow-roasted suckling pig is the centrepiece of most Sardinian celebrations.
• Spaghetti Vongole e Bottarga: This is spaghetti with clams with a distinct Sardinian touch from the bottarga (salted and dried tuna or grey mullet roe).
• Pizzetta Cagliaritana: Also known as Pizzetta Sfoglia we eat these flaky puff-pastry pastries filled with tomato sauce for breakfast or as a snack.
• Pardulas: Star-shaped small cheesecakes or tarts filled with ricotta, saffron, orange and lemon zest.
• Panada: This shortcrust pie originates from my hometown. There are three different versions of the filling: eels, meat (usually lamb, pork or beef and potatoes) and vegetarian. 
• Seadas: These are crispy, deep-fried sweet pastries that look like a large ravioli and are made with pecorino cheese, lemon and honey for a true taste of Sardinia.

And if you want to have a go at making these yourself, I offer cooking classes in Sardinia where you can learn how to prepare a typical authentic three course Sardinian meal, fresh pasta or culurgiones. I've also written a cookbook all about Sardinian food which will is now available to pre-order here! ​​

Pastries and Coffee
There are a number of great places to have coffee and enjoy a pastry in the morning but for me nothing beats enjoying breakfast at Poetto beach or at Calamosca terrace. Dietrizio is also a great inner city option.
​
Gelato
There are some great options for gelato in Cagliari. My personal favourite is Kremet Gelateria in Piazza Yenne. Peter Pan, which is opposite the marina, has lots of choice and is also very popular.

Vineyards
In most supermarkets and restaurants you will find only Sardinia wine and we are very proud of our own labels. Vermentino (white) and Cannonau (red) are among the most well-known but Monica and Carignano are also popular. If you’d like to visit a cantina near Cagliari I’d recommend Cantina Mesa, Audurya, Dolia Nova or Argiolas. If you're further north near Alghero then Sella & Mosca is another great one to visit. Many of these run events and wine tastings. 

Things To Do

• Bastione di San Remy: For views and nice aperitivo places.
• Torre dell’Elefante: A medieval tower in the historic district that offers great views of the city.
• Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta and Santa Cecilia 
• Piazza Yenne: The centre of the shopping district with lots of aperitivo places.
• Via Manno/Via Garibaldi: The best place for shopping and wandering.
• Rinascente: A high-end shopping centre opposite the marina. 
• Sup aka Stand Up Paddelboarding at Poetto / Marina Piccola: If you fancy something sporty. They also have windsurfing and other water activities.
• Camminata della Sella del Diavolo: A popular hiking trail and natural area. 
• Cagliari Marina: A lovely place with little bars. This is also a good spot to park.
• Mercato San Benedetto: This is currently in a temporary location but is a great place to shop like the locals. 
• Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Archaeological Museum): Showcases a vast collection of Sardinian artifacts, including Nuragic bronzes and Roman ceramics. 
• Barca Vela trip: We've tried a company called Sail Over and this is a lovely way to explore the sea and see the city from another angle! ​

Districts and Where to Stay

• Castello: This hilltop neighbourhood is at the heart of Cagliari’s historical centre and is the oldest part of the city.
• Villanova: This area has a mix of colourful buildings situated on narrow streets and is very charming and very Sardinian. It’s located a bit further from the tourist hotspots and is therefore quieter and more affordable. 
• Marina: A lively area with a mix of locals and tourists in the heart of the city. Easily walkable and close to many cultural attractions and restaurants.  
• Poetto: The beach area and perfect for relaxing. Family friendly and walking distance to a number of bars, restaurants and cafes. 
• Stampatto: Located to the west of the Castello district, this historical district is home to a number of artists and artisans and has always been a lively neighbourhood. ​

Other Areas To Visit

• Pan di Zucchero: A high coastal rock formation about an hour and 10 minutes from Cagliari that can be seen from the coast or by boat. You can also climb a protected climbing route (via ferrata).
• Laconi: A beautiful waterfall and park area and the drive there from Cagliari is also beautiful.
• Cala Goloritzé / Cala Luna: These areas offer amazing treks or you reach these beaches by boat. If you want to do the trek you have to reserve your space well in advance and you can do this online. 
• Rent a gommone or join a group boat tour to explore some of our more secluded beaches. The nearest ones from the south normally set off from Arbataz or Cala Gonone. 

I hope you enjoy your stay on our beautiful island! Feel free to comment below with any questions you have.

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